shaft up through the hole and mark the interior frames for clearance for the shafts and stuffing boxes. Now carefully enlarge the shaft holes until the stuffing boxes fit. The shafts and stuffing boxes must be carefully aligned with the strut or battery life will be very short.  Take your time and get it  right. We generally make the hole in the hull about 1/16" oversize then use toothpicks to shim the stuffing box into the correct position. If you have not already done so, scuff up the stuffing box with sandpaper then tack the stuffing boxes in place with 5 minute epoxy. When the epoxy sets, recheck the shaft for freedom from friction. if it is okay, finish bonding the stuffing boxes to the hull with a paste made from 5 minute epoxy and microballoons.

7. We cut our shafts down to 16" in order to keep the motors low in the hull. The shafts can be cut with a Dremel cut off wheel or a triangular file.

8. Mount the motors as shown in figs. 2 & 7. Note that they are mounted parallel to the water line when viewed from the side to keep the weight low.

9. Cut down the rudders as shown in fig. 7 with a hacksaw and sand smooth. Install the rudders in the hull as shown. The rudder arms are a little awkward to get to but we couldn't figure out how to keep the hatch inconspicuous any other way.

10. We mounted our radio gear up at the very front of the open area in the hold and carried the battery (Dumas #2024) just aft of the rear of the deck opening. The actual placement of the radio and batteries can

vary considerably. Place your radio gear and batteries where they are accessible and where they cause the boat to float properly in the water.

The picture above is the Dumas strut included in the hardware kit.