After the prop shaft "A" frames and rudder tubes had dried, I applied some more epoxy inside the hull.  I applied epoxy mixed with Micro-Balloons to the areas where the running gear penetrates the hull.


          Click on image to enlarge



  Remove the two P163's and place the pair of propellers (245) onto the shafts. If you wish to fix the props into place permanently you can do this with a small drop of superglue.  I will not add my props until the hull is painted.

  Now place the tiller arms onto the ends of the rudder shafts inside the hull, tighten the small bolts up as tight as you can. Take a length of brass wire and bend this to go between the tiller arms to link the rudder movements together.


          Click on image to enlarge

  Using Drawing. NO.3 from the manual,  first mark in the position of the four hawse holes in the back bulwarks.  The four hawse holes are halfway up the height of the bulwarks. Drill the holes undersize and file them to fit the mooring ports. Do not glue them into place at this stage.


          Click on image to enlarge

 

          Click on image to enlarge

  I looked at Drawing.No.3. and made a template of the freeing ports.


          Click on image to enlarge

 Now mark the position of the freeing ports at deck level on the outside of the hull.


          Click on image to enlarge


          Click on image to enlarge

 I drilled around the marks and used files to bring them into the final shape.  Remember to push the file from the outside of the hull to the inside.  If you drag the file from the inside to the outside, you risk chipping the gel coat.  All of the freeing ports are 7mm high.