Switching gears - ditching the Dumas PG-88 hull |
![]() ![]() |
Switching gears - ditching the Dumas PG-88 hull |
![]()
Post
#1
|
|
![]() Master Chief ![]() ![]() Group: System Moderator Posts: 107 Joined: 18-August 06 From: Roanoke, Virginia Member No.: 2 ![]() |
Well I finally stopped the hectic life junk for a few hours last night and pulled my PG-88 hull down to work on it. I had managed to get the running hardware in and the RC gear setup and working. I figured I'd be relatively "safe" to epoxy the decks on since things were nice and neat.
I put the decks in place and let them dry (thank goodness for 5-minute epoxy) and put the hull on the temp stand I had crafted so that I could put the superstructure, turret, and 40mm mount on it to get an overview on how things looked. That's where things went from so-so to bad ![]() The 40mm mount looked fine...level and nice. The superstructure looked so-so...it didn't "seat" quite right in the cutout of the deck...I figured I coild level it easy enough. Popped the turret into the hole I had drilled in the deck so that the shaft I put on the turret (so I can have it spin a bit off of a servo)...didn't look bad. Then I spun the model around so I could look down the beam from the bow to see how things lined up. My evil nemesis had returned! The first 8" or so of the bow were twisted up so that the starboard side of the bow was easily 3/4" higher than the port side. Once the deck got back to the point where the superstructure began it leveled off and was true. So I started my search again for a premade fiberglass hull for the PG boats. The Scale Shipyard has one listed for $159..a 1:35 scale. I've got an e-mail inquiry in to get some ordering info. Looks like if they have them/can get them I'll scrap the Dumas hull and scavenge the RC gear and running hardware and start from scratch using the fiberglass hull. That way I can just worry about making decks and superstructures which should be easy ![]() |
|
|
![]() ![]()
Post
#2
|
|
![]() Administrator ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Root Admin Posts: 330 Joined: 17-August 06 From: Minot, North Dakota Member No.: 1 ![]() |
Sorry to hear of your troubles... When it rains it pours!
![]() Deck supports, decks and superstructure... never say it's easy. I call it an "Enjoyable Challenge" ![]() -------------------- |
|
|
![]()
Post
#3
|
|
![]() Master Chief ![]() ![]() Group: System Moderator Posts: 107 Joined: 18-August 06 From: Roanoke, Virginia Member No.: 2 ![]() |
I though about getting new running hardware but at this point I don't want to spend any more $$$ than I have to. Spending another $160+shipping on a new hull is bad enough but evem my wife is saying "get what you need so it will work"...I have a lot of time and materials already tied up in this monster...I want to someday have something that looks presentable
![]() |
|
|
![]() ![]()
Post
#4
|
|
![]() Administrator ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Root Admin Posts: 330 Joined: 17-August 06 From: Minot, North Dakota Member No.: 1 ![]() |
Chip,
I can understand the money issue. I find myself very quickly spending lots of $$$ on a project. It simply SUCKS to back track and rebuy items for the same project. I have done it in the past, and I know it's part of the hobby we all enjoy. But I think I can save you some $$$ The struts that come with the Dumas H/W kit are not scale. When I built my USS Crockett I first used the Dumas running hardware. It does the job of "pushing" the boat around the lake. I ran my model many times with it. BUT, trying to get my model to "look" more scale they left alot to be desired. I later changed the struts, stern tubes, shafts and probs on my model. I wish I had made these changes before I had completed my model instead of going back later and tearing the hull apart. Take a look at the rudders, props and shafts. Will you be happy with these on a “true scale” hull? Although you bought the running H/W for the Crockett, it can be used on other models. I would recommend that you build what you will be happy with. If you want a “scale” model, take the extra time and effort ($$$ too) and build a scale model. If you are just wanting a model to run at your local lake, the Dumas running H/W will do you fine. Do what will end up making you happy reguardless of the money or time required. The money and time required are major reasons why some of these models take years to build. -------------------- |
|
|
![]()
Post
#5
|
|
![]() Master Chief ![]() ![]() Group: System Moderator Posts: 107 Joined: 18-August 06 From: Roanoke, Virginia Member No.: 2 ![]() |
Right now at this point in life I will happily settle for a midway point with this model...a nice scale model to put on the shelf and a decent duck-chaser for the pond. I don't care if on the pond it doesn't whine like the real thing would and churn the water like it actually had a turbine engine in it. Maybe one day I'll reconsider and if that happens I figure that I'll have another model that could use the Dumas gear...I have no qualms with minor patching and retooling...removing shafts and tubes and filling those gaps won't be hard.
If I had it to do over again I think I'd start from scratch and get the fiberglass hull nad buy the props, struts, rudders, etc by the piece and build that way working from a copy of the original builder's plans. |
|
|
![]()
Post
#6
|
|
![]() Master Chief ![]() ![]() Group: System Moderator Posts: 107 Joined: 18-August 06 From: Roanoke, Virginia Member No.: 2 ![]() |
Another change of direction
![]() I'm putting the fiberglass hull idea on the back burner as my absolute last resort. I'm not getting warm fuzzy feelings from the vendor I was looking at. Timeframe to make a hull from a mold shouldn't take 6 to 12 weeks and I get a bit ancy when info provided doesn't match what is listed on the company's website. So I'm back to scratch building my Crockett hull. I've taken my plans and enlarged them to a 1/32 scale and have ordered some balsa, basswood, and plywood from National Balsa to try to make the hull again. I'm ditching the Dumas kit other than the deck hardware and running hardware. I'll cut out the frames and get them lined up and then work on getting the hull skinned. Hopefully I'll not get the warp in the bow that I got with the Dumas hull ![]() The saga continues...and continues...and continues...like a bad soap opera.... |
|
|
![]() ![]()
Post
#7
|
|
![]() Administrator ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Root Admin Posts: 330 Joined: 17-August 06 From: Minot, North Dakota Member No.: 1 ![]() |
The saga continues...and continues...and continues...like a bad soap opera.... But are you having fun? Learning and becoming smarter about the hobby? In order to enjoy those days with our models, we have to endure some hardships. ![]() ![]() ![]() -------------------- |
|
|
![]()
Post
#8
|
|
![]() Master Chief ![]() ![]() Group: System Moderator Posts: 107 Joined: 18-August 06 From: Roanoke, Virginia Member No.: 2 ![]() |
I'm having a blast
![]() ![]() I'll have my new wood shipment in tomorrow...I'm plotting out my plans in the scale (1/32) now...I love having access to plotters at work ![]() |
|
|
![]()
Post
#9
|
|
![]() Master Chief ![]() ![]() Group: System Moderator Posts: 107 Joined: 18-August 06 From: Roanoke, Virginia Member No.: 2 ![]() |
Got my wood order in...ordered it from National Balsa out of Mass. Came packaged really well
![]() Last night I used some spray photo mount adhesive to fix my frame prints to stiff cardboard...cut the cardboard out to make templates. Used the templates to draw the frames on a few of the sheets of wood...I'll cut the frames out later this week ![]() I am also building the model in 2 sections...from frame 0 to 111 and from frame 111 to 154. Frame 111 will be double-thickness but hopefully will allow me to get things just right...and if one section warps I don't have to rebuild the whole thing over again ![]() I'm also not going for what I did the first round and try to have each plank fitted to the next...I'm going to start with some very thin strips of balsa (just wide enough to make it stable) and tack those to the frames to get the shape roughed in. Once I get the skeleton built then I'll fill in the plank "holes" with other strips to close the gaps but I'm not going to worry about trying to make the hull watertight just from the wood. Fiberglass will be the real shell and will smooth things out and make the hull watertight...hopefully... |
|
|
![]()
Post
#10
|
|
Seaman Apprentice ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1 Joined: 4-October 08 From: Cymnessessy Member No.: 2,373 ![]() |
i newbie plz how us the baton "add me"?
|
|
|
![]()
Post
#11
|
|
Seaman Apprentice ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1 Joined: 23-October 08 From: Poland Member No.: 2,463 ![]() |
Hi ,
I the beginner on the Internet.Please advise me What is your favorite browser Internet Explorer or Firefox (or other) and why? I worrisome to reckon which one is best. Thanks ____________________ invest -------------------- |
|
|
![]() ![]() |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 23rd April 2024 - 05:38 AM |