You do not need to fiberglass the transom.  I applied resin, sanded and re-applied the resin to fill the wood grain.

  After the resin has dried, lightly sand the fiberglassed portions of the hull with #220 grit sandpaper, removing any high buildups of resin. Be careful not to sand through the fiberglass cloth.   Then reapply resin.  Sand again.  Inspect the hull for any defects.  The "weave" in the fiberglass should be filled and smooth.

  Wet-sand the fiberglassed areas of the hull with #320 grit wet or dry sandpaper until the entire hull is smooth.

  After you have sanded the hull, you need to look for defects.  Sight down the hull, sight down the sheer knuckle looking for defects.  More than likely the sheer knuckle doesn't follow a smooth line as it flows down the hull.  This is corrected with Bondo® filler. 

  Auto body guys do this same procedure on cars.  They use filler to better define the lines of a car.  This is called "blocking".  After this is done, sand, clean and inspect the hull again.  Use spot putty to fill any minor voids

  The decking needs to be sanded smooth.  Dumas recommends fiberglassing the deck and hatch.  You DO NOT need to fiberglass the plywood deck and hatch!  You do need to fill any defects in the deck with filler and coat with resin.  The resin will fill the wood grain.  Try not to fill the crease in the deck where the breakwater is installed.  It is much easier to sand the deck smooth before all the detail construction is added.   After the resin had dried, sand and inspect.  Recoat with resin as needed.

  Spray a light coat of automotive primer on the fiberglassed portions of the hull and the deck/hatch. The primer will allow you to "see" the surface finish. Sand or fill any problem areas.  Sand any filled areas smooth.  Repeat as necessary.  (want to look for defects, take your hull out side in the sun)