The only major thing left are the various
railings and ladders. All stanchions (uprights) are 1/16 brass rod cut long enough
to extend into the deck 1/8" to 3/16". There are three different styles of
railing. The first is 1/32 wire which is used to simulate the welded pipe rails on the
real boat. The second type is .020 wire which is used to simulate wire rope. The third
type of railing is chain which is used in those areas where personnel or material must be
moved through the railings fairly often. Study figs. 7 & 8 the side and top views of
the finished boat as you build your rails. We drilled all holes for the stanchions first
then cut and soldered the rails on the boat. The rails were then carefully removed from
the boat and cleaned with a tooth brush and scouring powder. The rails were then painted
before reinstalling on the boat. Dumas used and highly recommend "Stay Brite Silver
Solder" for the railings. This solder flows well with a 25-40 watt soldering iron and
holds very very well. It uses a liquid flux that is very easy to use and clean up. Lay out
the ladders on a scrap piece wood an build them off the boat. We used straight pins to
hold the rungs while we were soldering.
The forward flagstaff should also be 6"
tall with the braces coming half way up the height. Drill a 1/16" hole in the bow
chock for the staff. Also drill a 1/16" hole in the bottom of the small mast light at
the top.
The rear ensign is 3" tall with the two
braces coming half way up Drill the mast light for the ensign staff. |
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Make up the fire
hoses as shown from four 15" lengths of the plastic lacing. I made mine up on the
little jig shown in the photo. After lacing around the pins I squeezed the lacing together
with pliers to simulate the strap and "zapped" everything together. Add the fire
hoses and stand pipes to the cabin after everything is painted. Note that the
stand pipes must be cemented to the cabin not to the deck. The stand pipes are
painted red.
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