Assemble the frames, sheers and keel without cement and place upside down on the building board. You may need to tape or tie things together with string. Line up the marks on the tops of the frames with the centerline of the building board. Also check to see that the frames are transversely perpendicular to the keel and board centerline by referring to the lines you drew on the board. Note: the frames will not be vertical to the board. They were designed perpendicular to the waterline. Also note that a 3/32" shim is needed under the sheers at the transom to level the transom. When you are satisfied with the fit and squareness of all parts cement the legs of the frames to the board.

Carefully remove the keel from the frames, mix up some slow epoxy and cement the keel to
the frames.

Roger's Notes: Step 7 instructs you to measure across the tops of frames 1 through 14 and mark the exact center.  I measured following the contour line of the deck, then extended the line down the frames to the keel notch.  Use this line to line up the center of the keel. Also note, that I cut a hole in FRAME 6.  This was done to allow for the attachment of linkages to the turret. There is no mention of cutting FRAME 6 in the kit directions.

Roger's Notes: Step 8 tells you to basically dry fit the parts of the hull.  These parts fit together extremely well.  I used waxed twine to tie the hull parts together.  The hull was then flipped and pinned to the building board upside down with T pins.  I don't agree with gluing the frames to the building board. Using T pins is much better than using glue to secure the hull to your board.  I checked the alignment, then glued the keel and sheers to the frames with a fillet of epoxy at each joint and allowed it to dry.  Leaving the twine in place, plus using the pins produced a hull that was straight and true.  The hull was flipped here for photography purposes.

Carefully remove the sheers then cement them in place with slow epoxy.