When the hull is sanded and filled to your satisfaction the exterior should be fiberglassed for maximum durability. Dumas has recommend l ½ to 2-oz. fiberglass cloth for this instead of the ¾ oz. cloth normally used for model aircraft. The ¾ oz. cloth is harder to work with and adds very little impact resistance to the hull. An alternative method of finishing the hull for those who don't like fiberglassing, is the good old-fashioned silk or heavy silkspan and dope.

Roger's Notes: Plan ahead for the fiberglass process.  What I mean is, don't do any sanding or cleaning before or after you lay down the fiberglass.  The resin seems to attract every floating goober or lint in the air.  Allow the hull to dry in a clean room.  The picture shows the fiberglass cloth cut and placed on in hull.  I used 2 oz. cloth but would have used 3 oz. if I were to do it again.   First cut the pieces, then cover the hull with a thin coat of resin.  I worked from the stern to the bow.  Saving the curves of the bow for last.
  

Roger's Notes: If you have done a good job at planking, the hull will sand smoothly with little effort.  Keep the hull padded.

Roger's Notes: After the cloth is cut and you have coated the hull with resin, lay a piece of cloth into the wet resin.  Work the resin into the fibers of the cloth with a paint brush, making sure that the cloth fully contacts the hull and is saturated with the resin.  Work out any air bubbles, creases or excess resin.  Work slowly to ensure a smooth finish.   When I did my hull, it took three pieces to complete it. When you have finished smoothing the resin, allow the resin to harden for 24 hours before you continue.