Cement the rudder blocks inside the hull.

Cut and/or sand the legs of frames I through 12 off so that the proper deck curve or camber is maintained. Each leg must taper to nothing at the extreme outer edge of the sheer so that the deck can fit tight against the top edge of the hull.

Roger's Notes: After I removed the hull from the board, I used SIG BOND to strengthen the joints inside the hull.  This also ensures that there are no gaps between the planks.

Roger's Notes: After the glue had dried inside the hull, I used a Dremel® tool to cut off the legs on top of each frame.  The frames taper to nothing at the outer  edge of the sheers following the top contour of the frames.  The tops of the frames were then sanded smooth.   I mixed up some 45 minute epoxy thinned with isopropyl alcohol and painted this inside the hull.  It water proofs the inside of the hull and provides an excellent base for the color coat.  (Yes, even the inside of the boat is painted.)   Also note, that I cut a hole in FRAME 6.  This was done to allow for the attachment of linkages to the turret. There is no mention of cutting FRAME 6 in the kit directions.