 
Bevel the keel and sheers with a sanding block so that the frames fair
smoothly into the keel and sheers.
The hull will next be planked with 1/8 x ½" balsa
planks. It is prohibitively expensive to supply full-length balsa planks, so you'll have
to splice together 36" stock to form full-length planks. We made diagonal butt joints
(see sketch)
and used Hot Stuff to glue the pieces
together. You will need 26 full-length planks for the boat. Since it takes a few evenings
to plank the hull, it isn't necessary to have all the planks spliced together before
commencing with the actual planking. You can splice while the glue is drying on the
previously applied plank. Since the planking stock varies in stiffness, it is a good idea
to sort through the bundle and
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STEP
12 Cont.
select the most flexible pieces for the upper bow area. The wood
can also be soaked in a solution of warm water and household ammonia which will greatly
increase the flexibility. Soaked wood should be pinned in place and allowed to dry before
cementing.
Roger's Notes: Step 12 prepares you for the planking. The strips
of balsa in my kit were of the highest quality. The density of the planks did not
vary much, but I was able to locate four of the softest (flexible) planks for the
sheer knuckle area. This is the most important feature on the hull. Take your
time to locate the best planks for this area. Study the picture above to get a idea
of how the planks are going to be laid down.
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