To see the high and low spots and the correct relationship of all of the various curves, all we need to do is bend a strip of wood across the hull at various points, as shown above. The wood strip, or fairing batten, can be any piece of wood that is narrow enough to bend easily and is longer than the hull. When the batten is held across the hull, note the high and low spots. Then, adjust these irregularities and lay the batten across that part of the hull again. Keep doing this all over the hull until every part touches the batten and the batten curves smoothly across the length of the hull.

As part of the fairing process, the sides of the chine logs must be faired, as shown here and on the plan (sections at frames on the right side of the plan). The chine logs can be faired easily with a small plane. Check your work often by bending a fairing batten vertically across the hull, as shown.

Waterproofing

At this time, it would be wise to waterproof those areas of the interior wood parts that will not be accessible after the planking is in place. Although it may not seem necessary to do this, waterproofing the interior of the hull will protect the wood and finish of your model, should any water get inside the boat.

You will need about 4 oz. of epoxy, or polyester resin, and a disposable brush to complete this sub-assembly.

Warning: Polyester resin, and some brands of epoxy resin, emit strong and pungent fumes during application. These fumes can be dangerous to your health. Read all warnings and cautions for the brand and type of resin you will use. Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid breathing the fumes.

Following the manufacturer's directions, mix about 4 oz. of resin.

Roger's Notes:  If you are working with polyester resin, you will use about 4 ozs. of resin. However, mix only about 1 oz. at a time to prevent it from curing in the container before application.



Brush a coat of resin onto only the shaded areas shown in the illustration at the left. These areas are:

1.  The underside of the sub-deck.

2.  Those parts of F4, F3, F2 and the inside of the transom below the sub-deck.

3.  The insides of the chine logs.

4.  The keel, above the keel strips.

5.  The front side of F1, above the breasthook.

6.  The top of the breasthook only.

7.  That portion of the stem that lays behind a line drawn from the deck to the breasthook, as shown.

8. The entire underside of the deck.

Roger's Notes:  Areas not waterproofed require further work.  Any resin on these areas will make them difficult to work with. Should any resin run onto areas that are not to be waterproofed, it should be removed with a paper towel soaked in alcohol, before the resin cures.