Mast and Boom


You will need the 5/16" x 5/16" x 16" basswood mast and the 1/4" x 1/4" x 6-1/2" basswood boom from Bag Number Two (#2) to complete this sub-assembly.



The mast is pre-cut to length. Taper the mast with a plane and sanding block, as shown, so that it is about 3/16" across at one end. The mast is to maintain a square shape.





Lay the tapered mast over the drawing of the mast in the Side View on the plan. Mark the location of the gooseneck and the hole at the top of the mast for the cordage. Drill a hole through the mast at these spots with a 1/16" drill bit, as shown.





The boom is pre-cut to length. Using a plane and sanding block, taper the boom in the same manner as the mast so that it is about 1/8" across at one end. The boom is also to maintain a square shape.





Lay the boom over the drawing of the boom in the Side View on the plan. Mark the location of the holes at the end of the boom for the cordage and cotter pin. Drill 1/16" holes through the boom at these locations. Also, drill a 1/16" hole 1 12" into the center of the large end of the boom, as shown.


Mast Step and Mast Support


You will need the 1/8" x3/16" x 11-7/8" basswood strip to complete this sub-assembly.  It is in Bag Number Two (#2).



Lay the plan on your building board so that the drawings of the mast step and mast support are completely on the board. Cover these drawings with plastic wrap (I used wax paper). Cut the mast step and mast support parts from the basswood strip. Using the plan as a pattern, glue the parts together with CA.





Remove the assembled mast step and mast support from the plan. Use a sanding block to sand the joints and edges of these parts smooth and flush. Place these parts aside. They will not be needed again until the boat is painted.


 

Cockpit Roof



                 Click on image to enlarge

Roger's Notes: Note in the picture above how I ensured the frames were parallel.  I used two metal sanders to ensure that the sides where square.  Make sure this assembly is square before the glue dries the frames to the cockpit roof.

When applying the tape to secure this assembly, it may be necessary to pull the roof structure into square by applying strips of tape diagonally across the bottom side of the beams, as shown in Step 189.  Because I used a different technique, I did not need to use tape diagonally across the bottom side of the beams.  The clamps and sanders held everything square.

On my boat, I glued the frames to the sides and NOT to the roof at this time.  I left the roof install for later but with the frames glued in it supported the sides and kept the assembly square. 


When the roof structure is square, apply Slow CA to the tops of the frames only. Position the cockpit roof on the frames so that its back edge is flush with the ends of the beams. Then, curve it into contact with all of the frames.



Roger's Notes: The frames may have a tendency to slip out of the grooves in the beams, and it will be necessary to push them back up on the frames and to hold them into contact with the cockpit roof until the Slow CA cures (about 15 seconds).  You can read here to get more information on how I did my roof.



Draw pencil lines on the underside of the cockpit roof to locate the outside edges of the beams, as shown.

Roger's Notes: The cockpit roof is now complete.  If you wish, you may glue it in place at this time with Slow CA, after removing any masking tape you may have used.  However,  if you are going to paint and detail the model before mounting the cockpit roof at a later time will make the detailing process much easier.  If you wish to install it at a later time then place it aside and remove the masking tape from the beams.             



Remove the cockpit roof.  Lay a ruler on the pencil lines and use an X-Acto® knife to cut the excess wood from the cockpit roof as shown.


                 Click on image to enlarge

Roger's Notes: The sides of the cockpit roof are to overhang the cockpit roof beams slightly, to allow for the fitting of the moldings later in construction.