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Painting & Detailing |
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Now that you have your waterline marking tool made, now is
time to mark the waterline.

Click on image to enlarge
Find the location for the
waterline for the bow on the plans. Make sure you account
for the removal of the stem head IF you removed it. Make a
mark on the bow to reflect the location as shown on the plan.
Find the location for the waterline for the transom on the
plans. Make a mark on the transom to reflect the location
as shown on the plan.

Click on image to enlarge
Prepare a level working
surface, I used a dining room table to mark my hull. Place
the hull (in the display cradle) on your flat working surface.
Place a level across the bulwark. Tape a sharp pencil to
the arm of the waterline marking tool as shown. Adjust the
hull and the waterline marking tool to align with the waterline
marks you made on the bow and transom.

Click on image to enlarge

Click on image to enlarge
Align the bow and transom
marks while making sure the tops of the bulwarks remain level. |
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Midwest described in the manual the
method of using talcum powder and the bath tub to locate the
waterline. I had used this technique when I started
building model boats, but I don't use it anymore. I use
what I feel is a much easier and accurate method of finding the
waterline.
The first thing you need to use the method I used is a tool to
hold your pencil firmly. This tool must hold your pencil
firmly and easily allow you to slide it on your table.
There are no set plans on how to build this tool, just only the
requirements it must satisfy. I built my tool with scrap
wood I had left over from other projects.

Click on image to enlarge
The beam and arm was made
of 1/2" basswood.

Click on image to enlarge
The beams and arm were glued
together with Thick CA. The arm is NOT glued to the main
vertical beam. The arm is secured with a "friction" type
fit allowing the arm to slide up and down the vertical beam,
allowing you to adjust the height for different models.

Click on image to enlarge
The base of the tool was made from
1/8" Sig® Aircraft Plywood. The rails on the bottom were
made from spruce, giving the tool support and also reducing the
friction from sliding it on the table. Note that they
don't match up in length, they were made from scraps.
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