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 Last Update: 16 Feb 06
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Painting & Detailing  


Now that you have your waterline marking tool made, now is time to mark the waterline.


                 Click on image to enlarge


Find the location for the waterline for the bow on the plans.  Make sure you account for the removal of the stem head IF you removed it.  Make a mark on the bow to reflect the location as shown on the plan.

Find the location for the waterline for the transom on the plans.  Make a mark on the transom to reflect the location as shown on the plan.


                 Click on image to enlarge

Prepare a level working surface, I used a dining room table to mark my hull.  Place the hull (in the display cradle) on your flat working surface.  Place a level across the bulwark.  Tape a sharp pencil to the arm of the waterline marking tool as shown.  Adjust the hull and the waterline marking tool to align with the waterline marks you made on the bow and transom.


                 Click on image to enlarge




                 Click on image to enlarge

Align the bow and transom marks while making sure the tops of the bulwarks remain level.


Midwest described in the manual the method of using talcum powder and the bath tub to locate the waterline.  I had used this technique when I started building model boats, but I don't use it anymore.  I use what I feel is a much easier and accurate method of finding the waterline.

The first thing you need to use the method I used is a tool to hold your pencil firmly.  This tool must hold your pencil firmly and easily allow you to slide it on your table.  There are no set plans on how to build this tool, just only the requirements it must satisfy.  I built my tool with scrap wood I had left over from other projects.


                 Click on image to enlarge

The beam and arm was made of 1/2" basswood.





                 Click on image to enlarge

The beams and arm were glued together with Thick CA.  The arm is NOT glued to the main vertical beam.  The arm is secured with a "friction" type fit allowing the arm to slide up and down the vertical beam, allowing you to adjust the height for different models.





                 Click on image to enlarge

The base of the tool was made from 1/8" Sig® Aircraft Plywood.  The rails on the bottom were made from spruce, giving the tool support and also reducing the friction from sliding it on the table.  Note that they don't match up in length, they were made from scraps.
 

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