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Kit Review
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Step By Step
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  Last update: 27 Aug 06
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  For fiberglass: Holes and gaps in the fiberglass can be filled using a "soft" paste car-body filler available from car accessory shops (e.g. Isopon P38 or Bondo). When the filler has set, sand with fine Wet and Dry paper.

  For plastic: Again, you can use car-body filler or Humbrol plastic Model Filler, available from model shops. Or you can even make your own filler by adding styrene shavings to solvent in a small jar and leave overnight. The plastic will dissolve and form a putty.

Die-Cut & CNC Cut Parts

  This kit contains several sheets of die-cut styrene (the part numbers are shown on the reduced sheet drawings in your manual.) The parts are not fully cut through. Ease them out by cutting around the shapes with a sharp knife. Do not try to cut with a heavy stroke, use gentle pressure and repeated strokes. Cut the parts only as you require them or you will have a box full of parts you do not recognize! It is very helpful to identify the parts with pencil and write the part numbers onto the pieces, with a soft pencil, then erase them out before painting.

Printed Parts

  Look at the printed styrene sheet and make sure you know what the parts are. Only cut out the pieces as you need them. Again use a steel rule with a sharp knife and cut away from "the fingers with gentle and repeated strokes.

            Click on image to enlarge

Bending A Styrene Part

  This can be done several ways: either place the area to be bent in hot water and gently bend, or place the area to be bent over the edge of a flat piece of plywood, holding the styrene flat to the ply, gently bend the outer edge down and roll backwards and forward over the edge; the styrene 'will start to curve, the further you bend it down the sharper the curve will be.

  If you have to curve strips along their length, hold them between you fingers and thumb at center and pull your hands apart. As you pull your hands apart bend them upwards as you pull, this will curve the strip to a gentle radius.



  It helps to get a good finish onto wood dowels if, before you cut them up or final coat paint them, you paint them. Model Slipway reccommends that you paint them with 2 or 3 coats of "Humbrol®" clear cellulose primer filler. I used a couple coats of Krylon® primer. Then rub them down between coats to a glass smooth finish. When they are then cut and assembled, they can be painted with the straight finish coat of paint.

White Metal Fittings

    Do not remove the fittings from the bags until you are ready to use them. You may prefer to empty the contents of each bag into a separate container such as an old tobacco tin or similar container as the polythene bags may wear with much use and split. I used small plastic storage drawers and small plastic bins.

            Click on image to enlarge

  When you use the fittings, it is advisable first to clean up any flash or mould marks. Also file flat some surfaces using fine files and wet & dry sandpaper. Model Slipway has found it helpful to glue half a sheet of wet & dry to a good flat piece of ply (use a contact adhesive or similar) and to rub the fitting onto it. It also helps if you clean up the castings with a brass suede brush. If you brush the fittings well, they will polish up nicely and supply a good finish for painting. Model Slipway has also found that the finish on the fittings is better if they are first sprayed or painted with a matt white or grey.

  When gluing fittings together, or to the model, you can use either thick superglue or a two-part Epoxy resin adhesive. You may please yourself as to which glue you use and when. You may, if you wish, solder the fittings together (if you are good using solder).


  There is an entire area devoted to painting.

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